Getting
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  Getting ready
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Getting Ready for Your New Puppy

Planning and Preparation

When joining its new family, a puppy is embarking on the biggest change it will probably encounter throughout its life.  The puppy will be leaving the only home it has known, leaving its mother and siblings behind.  This is a stressful adjustment for the puppy and the adoptive family's job is to make it feel as secure and comfortable as possible.  While it will be tempting to present your new puppy to friends, family and neighbors, it is important to wait for a little while for your puppy’s “coming out” party. 

It is best to plan for a quiet and gradual introduction to your home and to begin the processes of feeding, crate-training and housebreaking right away.  It is generally best to start your puppy off in a restricted area of your home and allow it to become familiar with that area.  Gradually expand its range as your puppy seems ready to take it on. Begin housebreaking training immediately (see Training Basics).  It will take your puppy up to a week or two to settle into her new routine – please be patient and place your puppy’s needs first during this transitional period – it will pay off for you and your puppy.

Don’t be concerned if your puppy seems to require a lot of sleep. Sleep helps your puppy to cope with the stress of change in its environment.  Other signs of stress may include panting and stools that are somewhat soft.  This is not unusual and reflects a reaction to stress.  However, if these symptoms do not go away within several days, consult with your veterinarian.

Puppy Proofing Your House for Safety

In addition to preventive health care for your puppy, it should be protected from potential safety hazards. Electric cords, for example, can be a hazard to the puppy and the family. To help prevent fires from resulting from a puppy biting into a cord, keep exposed lamp cords and other wires as short as possible. If extension cords must be used, tack them against a baseboard or run them under furniture so they cannot be played with or chewed. In addition to placing the household at risk, the resulting electric shock can be fatal to a puppy.

Pesticides, rodenticides, paint thinners, bleach, cleaning fluid, disinfectants, drain cleaner, moth balls, and detergents are among the many household chemicals which could prove poisonous to a puppy. They should be stored in tightly closed containers where the puppy cannot reach them.

Herbicides present a threat after the lawn has been sprayed with a weed killer. Keep your puppy inside or in a restricted area until the lawn is completely dry.

Antifreeze, containing the chemical ethylene glycol, is a frequent form of pet poisoning. Many pets are attracted to its sweet taste and lap it up when spilled on the ground or improperly stored. Containers should be securely closed and stored in a place not accessible to your puppy. Make certain your puppy is not in the vicinity when antifreeze is being drained, dispose of used material promptly.

Among the drugs that can be dangerous to puppies are overdoses of aspirin and the aspirin substitute, acetaminophen; ingestion of diet pills, sleeping pills and tranquilizers. These and any other drugs or any product with a label warning, “keep out of the reach of children” should be kept out of the reach of your puppy as well.

Puppies are remarkably curious and quick.  No matter how well you have prepared your home, there is no better safety measure than careful supervision!

Remember to always confine your puppy to its crate when it cannot be directly supervised!!


Supplies and Equipment

Your puppy’s transition will be eased if you are prepared with the right supplies and equipment from the very beginning.  The following is a suggested list of items to have in place when you bring your puppy home.

Crates  Crates are available in several varieties: molded plastic, wire and “soft” or fabric crates. Any variety works effectively for Labradors – however, the soft/fabric crate is best left until your puppy has grown into a reliable adult.  The crate you buy for your puppy should be able to house your dog as an adult.  In general, the crate dimensions should be about 28" wide x 42" long for an adult male and 24" wide by 36" for an adult female.

Feed and Water Bowls  Stainless steel is a good choice for functionality and value for feeding, a 2-quart stainless bowl and for water, a 2-quart or larger stainless pail.

Collars and Leads  An appropriately fitted collar and a lead are necessary when taking your puppy anywhere outside of a secure, fenced area.

Collars are available in flat traditional or quick release buckle and slip (or choke) collars.  Flat collars can be worn safely at all times.  Flat nylon collars are light-weight and generally appropriate for puppies. Adults may wear nylon or leather collars of the flat or rolled variety.  Choke collars should be worn only for training or walking sessions - they should not be left on as they can catch and strangle the dog. 

The following collars are recommended:

·         Puppy – a flat, nylon collar that is fully adjustable with a quick release buckle (has no preset holes) – usually the 10" to 14" size fits.

·         Adult – flat nylon or flat or rolled leather – usually 18" to 22" generally fits females and 20" to 24" generally fits males.

·         Training or leash walking collar – nylon slip collar recommended for dogs under 12 months old and a medium brass chain choker is recommended for adults

The following leads are recommended:

·         A 4’ to 6’ leather or nylon lead that is ¾” wide is comfortable to the hand and sturdy enough for an active puppy or adult and will be appropriate for general walking and training purposes.

·         A retractable lead is a nice alternative for controlled exercise.  They provide safe control of your dog at all times, yet gives her freedom.  It expands and retracts with the dog's movement and features an instant brake control activated by a pull of your finger.

Grooming Supplies  The following supplies will be needed to groom your puppy’s coat a small slicker brush and a steel pin-style brush. You will need a nail trimmer. I use the guillotine style trimmer, but other styles can also be used. You will also need an ear cleaning solution and gentle shampoo (use only shampoos formulated for dogs, as others can be too harsh).

Toys – Labrador puppies are very playful and can be easily entertained with a variety of toys. As with young children, be sure that toys do not have small, easily detachable parts that the puppy could choke on. I recommend Nyla Bones, latex squeak toys, rubber bones and balls, Kongs and fake lambs wool plush toys.

Pet Supply Sources – Local pet stores, national chain pet stores (Petsmart, PetCo), pet supply catalogs and online sources are available to supply your puppy’s products.  Prices can vary among the sources, so a little comparison shopping can be advantageous.  The following sources may be helpful:

Large retailers with local locations:

·          Petsmart  (www.petsmart.com)

·          PetCo  (www.petco.com)

Catalog/online stores:

·          Doctors Foster & Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com)

·          KV Vet Supply Company (www.kvvet.com)

·          PetEdge  (www.petedge.com)

·          Cherrybrook (NJ)  (www.cherrybrook.com)

 

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ABOUT PUPPIES l  Available Puppies and Adults | Responsibility Raising A Lab Puppy
ABOUT LIVING WITH LABRADORS
l  The Breed | Is A Lab Right for Me? | Labs and Children

 

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Jody Springer ●  Roanoke Texas

©1998-2008 Cygnet Labradors, All Rights Reserved.
Originally created: 1998;
Last modified: November 08, 2008